San Francisco’s 21st Amendment Brewery captures the essence of a Belgian quad in Baby Horse, the brewer’s homage to a style of beer inspired by Trappist monks decades ago.

These beers, similar in strength and complexity to Belgian strong dark ales, are distinguished in part by the strain of yeasts employed throughout parts of Belgium. American craft brewers, too, often use Belgian yeasts to help flavor and ferment their beer.

I’d wager that to be the case with Baby Horse, a rich, complex ale that’s surprisingly light in body for a beer of 9.5 percent alcohol by volume. It’s malty, of course, and slightly fruity with very little bitterness. The beer finishes dry with a hint of sweet citrus and spice.

Seek this one out while supplies last at fine bottle shops like Grapevine Fine Wine & Spirits in south Lakeland.

 Eric Pera can be reached at eric.pera@theledger.com or 863-802-7528.